Friday, July 17, 2009
The images above are from a surf I shared with Adam Luehman, Jarret Johnson and Alex Turoy at low tide SI a few minutes before the event commenced on monday the 13th of Jan.
This wave left me feeling pretty confident, only to find myself not able to link a wave in my heat.
Here is a short breakdown of Shark Island to give you an idea of how hard it is to link up a good one.
This particular day,the swell was of a straight east direction,which is basically straight onto the reef,because SI is a very uniformed(depth and general shape) reef most waves end up closing out,needing a bit more south to actually run down the reef and focus all its energy into the 'surge'.
Anyway, I picked up two waves that were probably the best of the heat,smallish on the peak with a good wall and bigger toward the surge,but unfortunately the first one bounced me and I lost a fin.The 2nd one, I totally misread and ended up being to greedy,wanting a barrel with an exit move.I ended up not getting either.I could of had full body air had i listened to my first instinct and smacked it at White Rock.
Lesson learnt,I grew as a rider from the experience and im looking forward to the next round where im looking to unleash my aerial assault wave depending.