thats right, call me a nancy if you will, but today was the funnest surf i have had in a very long time.
It felt good to go so high and so far out into the flats to feel disorientated and seriously consider bailing my board.
The best part, there were at most 3 guys out including myself!
Although it wasnt as good as it gets(nowhere near) I still got a good feel for it and am absolutely frothing to get it 6-8ft and banging.
Now for the juice,check out Jarrets blog, to see what happened to him when he decided to test his scoop on one of the bigger ones of the day, sure he is gonna feel that one for a few days.